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How To’s Day: Insulated Lunch Hamper

September 2nd, 2014 by Camelot Fabrics

Hi everyone!

 

 

 

 

Happy Tuesday! We hope everyone had a wonderful and restful long weekend. It was the perfect couple of days of beautiful weather and relaxation, the best way to start off September. We still can’t believe that we’re already into September, but excited for everything to come.

 

Starting off September with an awesome How To’s Day! There are still a few weeks left of Summer, so this week’s How To’s Day is perfect for soaking up those last couple of days of warm weather and greenery. Today we are featuring our Insulated Lunch Hamper Tutorial on the blog, a stylish and practical bag that would be fantastic for a last Summer picnic or beach day. But even as fall and winter rolls around, our Insulated Lunch Hamper can be used to keep all your hot food and drinks warm. Here’s to fun days in the snow, followed by delicious hot cocoa!

 

Our Insulated Lunch Hamper is insulated with our Spacetex, so it’s great for storing both hot and cold items. As well, the nylon is water-resistant so you can easily wipe away any condensation with a cloth. There are also three inner compartments, so there’s extra storage to organize your goodies. We used our Mint Condition by Jackie McFee Collection, which we think looks super pretty and fresh with the crisp mint and grey designs. No more lugging around heavy picnic baskets or boring coolers – take our Insulated Lunch Hamper on your next romantic park picnic or kid’s hockey match, and you’ll be equally organized and trendy!

 

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Love it? You can make your very own Insulated Lunch Hamper! Click MORE to see the full, free tutorial! :)

INSULATED LUNCH HAMPER

 

SUPPLIES:

– Fabric A (Shell): 5/8 yard of Mint Condition quilting cotton (44” wide) from Camelot Fabrics in 4141101 #2
– Fabric B (Accent 1): 1/3 yard of Mint Condition quilting cotton (44” wide) from Camelot Fabrics in 4141108 #1
– Fabric C (Accent 2): 1/2 yard of Mint Condition quilting cotton (44” wide) from Camelot Fabrics in 4141106 #2
– Fabric D (Lining): 2/3 yard of water-resistant 420D Nylon (58” wide) from Camelot Fabrics in K-10100
– Fabric E (Insulation): 1/2 yard of 9-158 Spacetex (58” wide) from Camelot Fabrics
– 1/4 yard of fusible interfacing (44” wide)
– (1) 3-1/2” x 13-1/2” piece of foam-core
– (1) 22” closed-end zipper in a coordinating color
– Basic sewing supplies: sewing machine, needle & coordinating thread, iron & pressing surface, scissors & fabric shears, straight pins, fabric marker & pencil/pen, measuring tape & straight-edge ruler, and cutting mat & craft knife

 

Notes:
1. Please wash, dry & iron your cotton before beginning, and trim the selvages.2. Unless otherwise indicated, use a 1/2” seam allowance throughout.3. Unless otherwise indicated, all seams are sewn with the fabrics’ Right Sides together.4. Backstitch at the beginning & end of each seam.5. WOF = Width of Fabric.
Working with Nylon:
This slippery fabric tends to shift as you sew, so we recommend using plenty of pins inserted at right angles to the seam. It also helps to maintain an even forward-back tension on the seam by pulling firmly from either direction. The idea is not to speed up or slow down the fabric’s progress under the needle, but rather to ensure that both layers of fabric pass through evenly, without any bunching or slipping.

 

 

CUTTING:

1. Cut the following pieces from each fabric, referring to the cutting diagrams below.

Notes:
– Diagrams have been resized to fit the page; 44” wide & 58” wide fabric are illustrated to different scales.
– To avoid confusion, label each piece in pencil on its Wrong Side as you go.

Fabric A (Shell Cotton)
- (1) Shell Back – 15” x 17”
– (1) Shell Front – 15” x 13”
– (2) Shell Ends – 5” x 13”
– (1) Shell Bottom – 5” x 15”

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Fabric B (Accent Cotton 1)
– (1) Pocket – 7” x 9”
– (1) Strap Outer – WOF x 3”

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Fabric C (Accent Cotton 2)
- (1) Pocket Binding – 8” x 2-1/2”
- (2) Handles – 24” x 4”
– (1) Strap Inner – WOF x 3”

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Fabric D (Nylon Lining)
- (4) Dividers – 5” x 12”
– (2) Ends – 5” x 13”
- (2) Center Sides – 9” x 13”
- (4) End Sides – 4” x 13”
– (1) Center Bottom – 9” x 5”
– (2) End Bottoms – 4” x 5”
– (1) Top Flap – 5” x 15”

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Fabric E (Insulation)
Note: Since the Insulation pieces are identical to the Shell pieces, and rectangles are easier to measure & cut in woven cotton than in Spacetex, we recommend cutting all Shell pieces first, then using them as guides for cutting the Insulation pieces.
– (1) Back – 15” x 17”
- (1) Front – 15” x 13”
– (2) Ends – 5” x 13”
- (1) Bottom – 5” x 15”

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Foam-Core
– (1) Bottom – 14-1/2” x 4-1/2”

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Fusible Interfacing
– Don’t cut this yet

 

 

MAKING THE LINING:

Notes:
For many of the seams in this section, you’ll be directed to begin and/or end the seam 1/2” from the fabric’s edge, as shown. This ensures that you’ll be able to move your seam allowance out of the way of an intersecting seam, giving you nice smooth corners.

Use Nylon Lining pieces for all steps in this section.

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1. Sew the 4” edges of (2) End Side pieces to the 4” edges of each End Bottom piece, beginning & ending the seam 1/2” from the fabrics’ edges.

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2. Sew the 5” edge of (1) End piece to (1) 5” edge of each End Bottom piece, beginning & ending 1/2” from the edges. Move the unsewn 1/2” from Step 1 out of the way of this seam.

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3. Sew the 5” edge of (1) Divider piece to the remaining 5” edge of each End Bottom piece, beginning & ending 1/2” from the edges. Move the unsewn 1/2” from Step 1 out of the way of this seam.

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4. Sew the long edges of the adjoining pieces from Step 3 together as shown, making sure not to catch any of the Bottom piece in your seams. The Divider pieces will end 1” short of the top of the (3) other pieces in each grouping – this is correct.
Begin all seams exactly at the point where pieces are joined to the Bottom. End the Divider/Side seams 1/2” shy of the top of the Divider pieces, but sew the Side/End seams all the way to the top of the fabric. Clip the corners at the bottom of each End Compartment.

P-006_diagram-23

This completes the (2) End Compartments.

5. Sew the Center Compartment in exactly the same manner as the End Compartments, except that you’ll use (2) Dividers instead of (1) Divider & (1) End piece, and the Side pieces will be 9” x 13” instead of 4” x 13”.

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6. Sew the top edge of (1) End Compartment’s Divider to the top edge of (1) Center Compartment Divider, moving the seam allowances of the Side pieces out of the way of the seam. Repeat with the remaining End Compartment & Center Compartment Dividers. Begin & end these seams exactly at the points where the Dividers join the Side pieces.
7. Fold the Divider seams from Step 6 back on themselves so that their Wrong Sides are facing, and topstitch 1/16” from the seam.
8. Sew the side edges of adjascent Side pieces together where they extend above the Dividers; these seams should run from the tops of the Dividers to the tops of the Side pieces.P-006_diagram-25

9. Sew the Top Flap to (1) long edge of the Lining, beginning & ending exactly at the joints between the Ends & the Sides.
This completes the Lining.

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MAKING THE SHELL

1. Baste each Fabric A Shell piece to its corresponding Insulation piece, Wrong Sides together, 1/4” from all (4) edges. Each of these pieces will be treated as a single layer of fabric from now on, and referred to as Shell pieces.
2. Place the Fabric B & Fabric C Strap pieces Right Side down on your ironing board, and cover them with a piece of fusible interfacing, glue side down. Press well to bond the interfacing to the cotton, peel all layers off the ironing board and trim the interfacing to match the (2) Strap pieces.
3. Sew the Strap pieces together, leaving one end open. Clip the corners, press the seams open and turn the Strap Right Side out through this short end.
4. Topstitch around all (4) edges of the Strap with an 1/8” seam allowance.
5. Topstitch each end ot the Strap to a Shell End piece as shown, with the Fabric C side of the Strap against the cotton side of the Shell. Use an 1/8” seam allowance and be careful not to twist the strap. Stitch back and forth across the Strap, 2” from the top of the Shell End, to secure it in place.

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6. Fold each Handle piece in half lengthwise, Right Sides together, and sew the long edges together. Press the seams open, and baste across (1) short end of each Handle. Turn the Handles Right Side out, rip out the basting stitches, and press them flat with the seam in the center of one flat side.

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7. Fold the Pocket Binding piece (Fabric C) in half lengthwise, Wrong Sides together, and press. Unfold the piece, fold the long edges in to the crease and press again. Fold in half lengthwise once more and press to create an 8” long strip of double-fold binding for the top of the Pocket.
P-006_diagram-29

8. With the Wrong Side of the Pocket facing upward, open up your binding and line it up with the top edge of your Pocket, with the outside of the binding against the Pocket. Sew the binding to the Pocket’s edge along the outermost fold line.

P-006_diagram-30

 

9. Turn the Pocket over so that the Right Side is facing up. Wrap the binding around the Pocket’s edge, with its own long edge tucked in toward the center of its fold (it’ll want to do this naturally), and stitch it in place with a seam 1/8” from the inner fold. Clip any excess binding.

P-006_diagram-31

10. Center the Pocket on the Shell front, with the Pocket’s Wrong Side against the Shell’s cotton side and the bottom edges of the (2) layers aligned. Topstitch the Pocket to the Shell front at the sides, 1/4” from the edges, but leave the bound edge open.

P-006_diagram-32

11. Topstitch the ends of (1) Handle over the sides of the Pocket, making sure that the Handle isn’t twisted and its seams are against the Shell. Its outer edges should be 3” from the Shell’s sides. Stitch back and forth across the Handle as you did the Strap, 2” from the top of the Shell Front.

P-006_diagram-33

12. Construct the Shell as you did each one ot the Lining units, first sewing the Front, Back & (1) End to the edges of the Bottom piece, then joining them at the sides with seams beginning exactly at the Bottom seams.
13. Baste the second End to the Bottom and sew its (2) 13” edges to the Front & Back with regular seams, then remove the End/Bottom basting stitches. This will be the gap through which you invert the hamper & insert the foam-core base.
Note: Remember to begin and end your Bottom seams 1/2” from the edges, and to clip your corners once the Shell is sewn!

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FINISHING
Almost there! This one’s a bit of a marathon, I know, but I believe in you.

1. Trim the corners of your Shell Back so that they are curved at the tips. Keep the curve small, about 1” in diameter, to avoid reducing the perimeter of the Back flap too dramatically.

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2. Pin (1) side of your zipper’s tape to the top edge of the Shell’s Ends & Front, with the Right Side of the zipper tape against the cotton side of the Shell and the zip’s teeth pointing away from the fabrics’ edges.
3. Pin the second side of the zipper tape to the edges of the Back flap, with the Right Side of the zipper against the cotton side of the flap and the zip’s teeth pointing away from the fabric’s edge.

P-006_diagram-36

4. With your machine’s zipper foot mounted on the right-hand side of the presser bar, sew the zipper’s (2) tapes to the Shell, stitching about 1/8” – 1/4” inside the zip’s teeth.
5. Trim the corners of the Lining’s Back flap as you did the flap of the Shell.
6. With the Lining turned Wrong Side outward, sew its top edge & Back flap edge to the Wrong Side of the zipper in the same manner as you sewed the zipper to the Shell. This seam should run slightly farther from the zip’s teeth than the seam joining the Shell to the zipper. When you turn the Hamper Right Side out, the edge of the zipper tape will be completely enclosed.

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7. Turn the Hamper Right Side out through the opened End/Bottom seam in the Shell. Insert your foam-core rectangle between the Shell & Lining, and sew the gap closed by hand.
8. If there are any gaps at either end of the zipper, close them with a little hand-stitching.
9. To keep everything from shifting, hand-tack the corners of each Lining Compartment to the Shell through the seams around the Shell’s Bottom.

Pack a yummy lunch for two. Better yet: get your lunch-partner to prep & pack the lunch – you’ve done enough!

 

 

We really hope you have enjoyed this week’s How To’s Day! If you decide to give our Insulated Lunch Hamper Tutorial a try, we would love to see! You can send all your project pictures to info@camelotfabrics.com or tag us on Instagram. Seeing our fabric used in your projects or one of our DIYs makes our day. Have a wonderful one!! :)

 

 

 

 

Happy Sewing!

 

One Response to “How To’s Day: Insulated Lunch Hamper”

  1. September 05, 2014 at 9:10 am, Joyce Tinsley said:

    I’m interested in the Spacetex that was used to insulate this lunch bag, but could not find it on your site. Is it available?